Fashion & Textile History Gallery
June 2 – November 14, 2015
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The globalization of fashion has given rise to new fashion cities that now annually
host hundreds of fashion weeks around the world. Each city's cultural identity and
particular economic, political, and social circumstances combine to elevate its designers
to international attention. Global Fashion Capitals explored the history of the established fashion capitals—Paris, New York, Milan,
and London—and the emergence of 16 new fashion cities.
Big Park, dress, spring 2015, Seoul, gift of Big Park, 2015.2.1
Lisa Folawiyo, dress, spring 2015, Lagos, gift of Lisa Folawiyo, 2015.6.1
The exhibition opened with a digital style map that geographically located the fashion
capitals and showcased their latest runway and street style photographs. Global Fashion Capitals continued city-by-city, starting with Paris, the birthplace of haute couture, represented
by designs from Charles Frederick Worth, Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, and the
emerging couturier, Bouchra Jarrar.
The New York section began with a circa 1938 iridescent evening gown by Nettie Rosenstein
and ended with Alexander Wang's sporty spring/summer 2015 neon orange dress. New York
also included styles by Claire McCardell, Halston, and Ralph Lauren.
Milan claimed its place as Italy's fashion capital during the 1970s. Brands such as
Versace and Prada helped establish the city's respected prêt-à-porter. Now, newer
designers, such as Stella Jean, bring fresh perspectives to Milan.
Christian Dior, evening dress, 1950, Paris, gift of Mrs. Tilly Friedman, 85.172.3
Nettie Rosenstein, evening dress, 1938, New York, gift of Gloria Carr de Veynac, 76.32.1
Prada, ensemble, fall 2007, Milan, gift of Prada, 2007.20.1
London captured international attention with youthquake fashions during the 1960s.
Provocative designers such as Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, and Alexander McQueen
established London as a creative fashion hub during the decades since.
When selecting which emerging fashion capitals to include in the exhibition, the curators
considered a number of indicators to show that a city's fashion scene is growing.
All the featured cities are home to forward-thinking designers who have achieved domestic
success and attracted international interest. They also hold fashion weeks attended
by international press and fashion buyers.
Christopher Kane, dress, fall 2014, London, museum purchase, 2015.15.1
Yohji Yamamoto, corset, fall 1991, Tokyo, gift of an anonymous donor, 2010.1.2
Alexandre Herchcovitch, jumpsuit, spring 2007, São Paulo, Brazil, gift of Alexandre
Several factors drive the development of a city's fashion scene—politics, economics,
and government support among them. For example, Johannesburg fashion blossomed during
the post-apartheid era, led by designers such as Nkhensani Nkosi of Stoned Cherrie.
Current events in Ukraine have ignited the creativity of designers such as Anton Belinskiy,
who staged a photo shoot amid Kievs street protests.
China's economic growth over the last decade created consumer demand for international
fashion, developing into support for successful domestic designers, such as Shanghai's
Masha Ma. Nigeria's economy, the largest in Africa, supports Lagos' developing fashion
industry and the growing international reach of brands like Maki Oh and Lisa Folwaiyo.
The governments of Copenhagen and Seoul actively fund and promote their fashion industries.
Lie Sangbong, ensemble, fall 2006, Seoul, gift of Lie Sangbong, 2015.9.1
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, dress, spring/summer 2014, Madrid, gift of Agatha Ruiz de
la Prada, 2014.44.1
Carla Fernndez, ensemble, 2009, Mexico City, gift of Carla Fernndez/Taller Flora,
The exhibition also examined fashions from:
Global Fashion Capitals was organized by Ariele Elia, assistant curator of costume and textiles, and Elizabeth
Way, curatorial assistant, The Museum at FIT.
The Museum at FIT, in conjunction with CUNY Graduate Center and School of Visual,
Media & Performing Arts at Brooklyn College, hosted a one-day symposium on the topic
of global fashion capitals. The morning session took place on the FIT campus and consisted
of a student fair, where visitors interacted with members of the international fashion
community. The morning also included a fashion show featuring five designers from
emerging fashion capitals and a panel discussion moderated by MFIT curators Ariele
Elia and Elizabeth Way. The afternoon session took place at the CUNY Graduate Center.
From June 18 July 6, 2015 the Instituto Cervantes
presented the exhibition Agatha Ruiz de la Prada: Posters Design
, a selection of costumes, posters, and furniture that fashion designer Agatha Ruiz
de la Prada created during her more than thirty years designing.