It's All Happening in 2013
Exhibitions in the New York area:
The Museum at FIT presents:Retrospective, our latest Fashion & Textile History Gallery rotation that explores how designers embrace looking back at fashion history as a fundamental part of the design process. Closes November 16.Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity at the Met Museum through May 27, 2013 presents a revealing look at the role of fashion in the works of the Impressionists and their contemporaries. Some eighty major figure paintings, seen in concert with period costumes, accessories, fashion plates, photographs, and popular prints, highlight the vital relationship between fashion and art during the pivotal years, from the mid-1860s to the mid-1880s, when Paris emerged as the style capital of the world. (Includes a dress from the collection of MFIT!) |
 Anna Sui, ensemble, floral embroidered blue and gold shot silk taffeta, velvet, cord, beaded denim, 1999-2000, USA, gift of Anna Sui. |
| Recently made popular by the British television series Downton Abbey, the Edwardian period has been depicted as an indolent summer afternoon of imperial and elite complacency, a lingering coda of the Victorian era that resisted the advent of the Modern, but also as a period of tremendous and rapid political, economic, and artistic change that affected every aspect of British life. Edwardian Opulence: British Art at the Dawn of the Twentieth Century explores issues of creation, consumption, and display through a range of objects. Spanning divides of class and geography, the exhibition identi#es opulence and leisure as driving forces for the domestic and imperial British economic engine in the early years of the twentieth century. At the Yale Center for British Art until June 2, 2013. Just in time for summer, an exhibit by noted British Magnum photographer Martin Parr is on view at Aperture Gallery in NYC. Life’s a Beach presents photos of beachgoers on far-flung shores, including Argentina, Brazil, China, Spain, Italy, Latvia, Japan, the United States, Mexico, Thailand, and the UK. The exhibition brings to the fore Parr’s engagement with a cherished subject matter—that rare public space in which general absurdities and local quirks seamlessly fuse together. This selection of photographs captures moments of absurdity and immerses one in rituals and traditions associated with beach life the world over. Check it out through July 3, 2013. In the 1890s, women’s fashions were changing dramatically. The bustle was disappearing from day dress, and tailored jackets and gored skirts were all the rage. The Gibson Girl look was very popular: puffy-sleeved shirt, floppy bow or cravat, long flowing bell skirt, and swept-up hair beneath a feather-topped hat and a parasol. Women were becoming bolder in their fashion choices — vivid colors were more widely available, and astonishing striped fabrics and delicate florals were in style. The Beautiful Bodice: Fashions from the 1890s runs until August 8 at the Allentown Art Museum (PA). |
|
 Jordan, 1977. Photograph from Rex USA. |
Also at the Met Museum this spring is the Costume Institute exhibition, PUNK: Chaos to Couture,
which examines punk's impact on high fashion from the movement's birth
in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today. Featuring
approximately one hundred designs for men and women, the exhibition
includes original punk garments and recent, directional fashion to
illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear borrow punk's visual
symbols. Until August 14, 2013. Depictions of bodies in outer space have appeared in jewelry since ancient times. The influence of the space race beginning in the late 1950s had a major impact on jewelry design and continues to do so today. Out of this World! Jewelry in the Space Age at the Forbes Gallery traces space images in jewelry from the Georgian period through today and includes fine and |
| costume jewelry from the
1960s through the present. Through
September 7, 2013.
The Museum of the City of New York presents Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced, an examination of the work of the designer The New York Times called in 1977 the “brightest star of American fashion.” It looks at the period spanning the 1970s when Stephen Burrows’ meteoric rise to fame made him not only the first African-American designer to gain international stature, but a celebrated fashion innovator whose work helped define the look of a generation. Photographs, drawings, and original garments trace Burrows’ evolution from creating eclectic looks for his friends in the 1960s to his work with the chic 57th Street retailer Henri Bendel to the floor of Studio 54, as he dressed such 70s style icons as Cher, Liza Minnelli, and Diana Ross. (Includes objects from the collection of MFIT!) On view til September 8, 2013. Featuring over 450 pieces of fashion jewelry by designers such as Miriam Haskell, Marcel Boucher, Balenciaga, Kenneth Jay Lane, and Gripoix, Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger at the MAD Museum is an eye-opening display of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, many of them one-of-a-kind, drawn from the world-renowned collection of Barbara Berger, the daughter of an American diamond merchant. From June 25 until September 22, 2013. George Eastman House in Rochester, NY is proud to present The Gender Show, an exhibition that explores ways gender has been presented in photographs, ranging from archetypal to non-traditional to subversive representations, with a special emphasis on the performances that photography can encourage or capture. From June 8 through September 29, 2013. Shanghai Glamour at The Museum of Chinese in America explores how Shanghai women and their fashionable dress epitomized the seduction and mystery of this legendary city as it was modernizing in the early 20th century. Shanghai was established as a treaty port in the nineteenth century and became a major modern metropolis by the 1920s, internationally known as “the Paris of the East.” (Includes objects from the collection of MFIT!) Through September 29, 2013. Also at The Museum of Chinese in America is Front Row: Chinese American Designers, an exhibition that traces and celebrates the rise of Chinese American designers who decided to make their marks in New York. Runs until September 29, 2013. The Brooklyn Museum presents The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk. Gaultier has shaped the look of fashion over the last 35 years with his avant-garde creations and cutting-edge designs. This international exhibition of the celebrated and famed French couturier's work provides a spectacular overview of his extensive oeuvre. Initiated and produced by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in collaboration with the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier-Paris, the exhibition brings to life the world of Gaultier and gives a unique opportunity to visitors to have access to haute couture, stage and movie costumes. On view October 25 to December 29, 2013. |
|
|
Also at the MAD Museum is Out of Hand: Materializing the Postdigital, an exhibition exploring the many areas of 21st-century creativity made possible by advanced methods of computer-assisted production known as digital fabrication. From sculptural fantasy to functional beauty, Out of Hand examines the pioneering works of more than 80 international artists, architects, and designers, including Ron Arad, Barry X Ball, Zaha Hadid, Stephen Jones, Anish Kapoor, Allan McCollum, Marc Newson, and Roxy Paine. Represented will be some of the most compelling creations from the past decade ranging from sculpture and furniture to fashion and transport. On view September 3, 2013 to July 6, 2014. |
 Marc Newson, Doudou necklace byBoucheron, 2009 |
Designer tributes:
 The Chanel Legend © Draiflessen Collection, Mettingen (Foto | photo: Peter Hübbe).
|
Kaffe Fassett – A Life in Colour is a celebration of the work of one of the great practitioners of contemporary craft. This exhibition, the first in London since Kaffe Fassett’s record-breaking show at the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1988, features over 100 works within a dramatic installation designed by Sue Timney. At the Fashion and Textile Museum in London until June 29, 2013. With more than 150 original objects from major collections such as the Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, the Musée Galliera in Paris and the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, The Chanel Legend explores the question of why Coco Chanel both as a person and the founder of a brand has always remained the subject of such great attention even today. Runs until July 7, 2013 at the Draiflessen Collection in Mettingen and will also be shown in the Gemeentemuseum The Hague in autumn/winter 2013-2014. |
|
To celebrate the 60th anniversary in 2013 of the founding of the Laura Ashley label, the Fashion Museum in Bath, U.K. celebrates the vision of the romantic heroine that Laura Ashley gave to fashion in the 1960s and 1970s -- look that fashion editor Felicity Green, referred to in the Daily Mirror in 1970 as ‘soft-core femininity’ and ‘Victorian type demureness.’ By the tail end of the Swinging Sixties the bright and shiny bubble of optimism had burst and so designers found inspiration, and comfort, in nostalgia for times gone by. Laura Ashley: The Romantic Heroine focuses on the dresses that caught the imagination and chimed with the zeitgeist. From July 13 through August 26, 2013. With spectacular textiles, ravishing dresses and original sketches, Zandra Rhodes Unseen presents a rare opportunity to explore the archive, studio and creative process of one of the world’s most distinctive designers. An inspiration to her contemporaries for over 50 years, this exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London combines lesser-known fashion collections with more familiar designs drawn from a prolific career. From July 12 until August 31, 2013. Mounted in Villa Les Rhumbs in Granville, where Christian Dior spent his childhood, Impressions Dior attempts to show how this couturier's designs were partially linked to the Impressionist movement. Christian Dior's fashions and photographs of his garden reveal the extent to which Dior was aware of the natural environment and the themes of light and reflections, just as the Impressionist painters had been. Runs until September 22, 2013. |
|
| Bellville Sassoon has been synonymous with high fashion for over 50
years. As Britain’s foremost couture label from the 1960s onwards,
founder Belinda Bellville with designers David Sassoon and Lorcan
Mullany, dressed many of the world’s most stylish women, including
Diana, Princess of Wales. The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon
traces the history of British glamour from the couture houses of the
late 1950s, to the celebrities who became clients of the company. It
also explores the influence of ready-to-wear and Vogue patterns. At the Fashion and Textile Museum in London from September 20 until January 11, 2014. |
 Belinda Bellville and David Sassoon with model, 1967. Photo credit: Women's Wear Daily, 25 May 1967. |
| This autumn, Somerset House in London, in partnership with the Isabella Blow Foundation and Central Saint Martins, is proud to present Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!, a major fashion exhibition celebrating the extraordinary life and wardrobe of the late British patron of fashion and art. The exhibition will run from November 20, 2013 to March 2, 2014. | |
All the World's a Stage:
 Striped bodysuit for Aladdin Sane tour 1973. Design by Kansai Yamamoto. Photograph by Masayoshi Sukita. © Sukita The David Bowie Archive 2012. |
London's V&A Museum presents David Bowie is,
a major retrospective exploring the creative processes of Bowie as a
musical innovator and cultural icon, tracing his shifting style and
sustained reinvention across five decades. More than 300 objects on view include handwritten
lyrics, original costumes, musical instruments and album artwork. Also
included are Ziggy Stardust costumes designed by Freddie Burretti in 1972; costumes from the 1973 Aladdin Sane tour, designed by Kansai Yamamoto; and Bowie and Alexander McQueen’s collaborative Union Jack coat, as worn on the 1997 Earthling cover. Drool. Through July 28,
2013. The V&A Museum continues its fashion offerings with From Club to Catwalk, an exhibition exploring the creative explosion of London fashion in the 1980s. It shows the creative relationship between catwalk and |
| club wear, and the emerging theatricality in fashion, reflected in magazines such as i-D and Blitz. The display includes outfits made specifically to be worn at clubs such as Heaven and Taboo, creations designed and worn by the flamboyant clubber Leigh Bowery, glamorous dresses designed specifically for men, studded biker outfits by Pam Hogg and Katharine Hamnett, customised denim jackets by Vivienne Westwood and Richmond Cornejo and exuberant knitwear by Joseph, Artwork and Bodymap.On view July 10, 2013 until February 16, 2014 | |
Fashioning identity
| The Fashion Museum of Hasselt (Belgium) presents Axelle Red - Fashion Victim. Axelle Red has been given ‘carte blanche’, or should we say ‘rouge’, to express her story about music and about a certain (Belgian) fashion throughout her life and her career. Fashion has always been a way of expressing herself, a passion, an art, a mirror for herself and society. Her video clips, art work and performances reflect the zeitgeist of innovative designers, including Helmut Lang, Maison Martin Margiela, Olivier Theyskens and A.F. Vandevorst. Through June 2, 2013. | |
| At the intersection of anthropology, the history of ancient and contemporary art, fashion and manners, Beloved Hair: Trophies and Trifles at the Musee du Quai Branly in Paris examines individual issues of intimacy and sociability through the universal theme of hair. On view through July 14, 2013. While we usually think of military uniforms, a uniform is really just a distinctive outfit that identifies a group and helps bind them together. Uniformly Dressed at the Charleston Museum focuses on all types of uniforms, including diplomatic, school, volunteer, sports and military groups. Through August 11, 2013. |
 Mkupuk Eba, Hairstyle series, 1974. Silver print on baryta paper, J.D.'Okhai Ojeikere © musée du quai Branly. |
| A symbol of love and commitment, the wedding dress personifies girlhood
fantasies, a moment of transition, a performance of cultural values. Behind the Veil: Brides and Their Dresses
explores how brides over the past 100 years have chosen their wedding
dresses, and how their decisions are shaped by fashion, family, and
finances. This exhibition highlights not only the dresses worn on the
big day, but the stories of the women who wore them – whether a
traditional princess-style dress or a funky animal print, whether a
simple homemade dress from the early 19th century or a mini worn in
1969. At the American Textile History Museum until August 11, 2013 The RISD Museum in Providence, RI, celebrates the dandy, tracing the variety of ways in which this personality has blazed through two centuries and investigating where he resides today. Rather than following strict definitions, Artist/Rebel/Dandy: Men of Fashion features myriad manifestations of the dandy’s style and persona, from the discreet sophistication and consummate elegance of Beau Brummell (1778–1840) to the romantics and revolutionaries of today—including Rick Owens, Patti Smith, Ouigi Theodore, and Waris Ahluwalia. (Includes objects from the collection of MFIT!) On view through August 18, 2013. During the years historians call the Progressive Era, American women took on many new roles and activities, and fashion had to follow. Active lives required practical clothes. Fashioning the New Woman: 1890-1925 examines the changes in women’s lives and clothing during this critical period in women’s history. At the DAR Museum in Washington D.C. until August 31, 2013. Ann Bonfoey Taylor (1910–2007) created a life that personifies what an American woman can be—Olympic skier, championship tennis player, licensed pilot, successful skiwear designer, skilled sportswoman—but above all, she was a style icon. Fashion Independent: The Original Style of Ann Bonfoey Taylor, organized by Dennita Sewell, curator of fashion design at Phoenix Art Museum, showcases the custom-made wardrobe of day and evening wear that Taylor assembled from the post–World War II era through the 1970s. At the Georgia Museum of Art (Athens, Georgia) June 1 to September 14, 2013. In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion explores the sumptuous costume of British monarchs and their court during the 16th and 17th centuries through portraits in the Royal Collection. During this period fashion was central to court life and was an important way to display social status. Royalty and the elite were the tastemakers of the day, often directly influencing the styles of fashionable clothing. At Buckingham Palace in London until October 6, 2013. The end of the 1960s and early 1970s was an exciting time for fashion as the counterculture’s challenges to authority expressed itself in new ways of thinking about dress. The emerging hippie culture rejected the dictates of Paris haute couture, adopting instead an eclectic, highly individual look, mixing vintage and ethnic clothing with fashions inspired by contemporary psychedelic Pop art, nature, fantasy, and ethnographic art. For the first time, trends percolated up from the streets to affect ready to wear and even haute couture. Hippie Chic celebrates the designs of innovative boutiques and young designers and includes about 50 ensembles. (Includes objects from the collection of MFIT!) At the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston from July 2 through November 11, 2013. |
|
 Frida Kahlo arriving in New York, 1938. |
Frida Kahlo has long intrigued both fashion designers and art-lovers,
with her distinct look, tragic life and heart-stopping self-portraits. A
deeper glimpse into her life and style is revealed in Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Frida Kahlo
at the Museo Frida Kalho, her former home in Mexico City. Her closets
are opened for the first time since her death in 1954, unveiling over
300 items from her wardrobe, as well as a number of strangely elegant
prosthetic limbs and orthopedic corsets. Also included are a variety of
garments inspired by Kahlo, by designers Jean Paul Gaultier, Ricardo
Tisci and Rei Kawakubo. The exhibit runs through November 2013. |
| Most of the prints in the exhibit Beauty, Virtue and Vice: Images of Women in Nineteenth-Century American Prints were designed simply to please the eye, but they are also useful to historians who would like to understand how nineteenth-century Americans thought about the world in which they lived. Prints can be extremely useful for understanding the history of popular ideas, understandings, and beliefs. When read carefully and conscientiously, prints can be very useful documentary sources for understanding the past. This permanent online exhibition is hosted by the American Antiquarian Society. | |
Unraveling Textiles:
| Advances in digital textile printing have brought about the widespread
use in fashion design of a new range of prints in bold, eye-catching
patterns and colors. Digital Print Fashion at
the Phoenix Art Museum features over 40 works by contemporary designers
including Mary Katrantzou, Alexander McQueen, Ralph Rucci and Issey
Miyake among others incorporate digitally printed textiles in their
designs. In addition, a selection of works outlining the history of
printed textiles from Phoenix Art Museum’s fashion design collection
gives context to these revolutionary looks. Until July 14, 2013. |
 Alexander McQueen, Dress, Spring 2010. Printed. Lent by Suzy Kellems Dominik to Digial Print Fashion. |
A similar exhibition at the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie in Paris is Futuro Textiles. Their website provides little information except that it closes July 14, 2013, but the video is awesome! On the Surface explores the use of digital textile design and printing in contemporary fashion. It includes work by designers who adopt different processes of incorporating digital prints into their designs. At Fashion Space in London June 5 to July 20, 2013. During the 1950s and 1960s, the couturiers Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Cristóbal Balenciaga all worked together with the Swiss firm, Abraham, for their exclusive fabrics. This company was specialized in printing silks. Today, the Abraham archives, an impressive collection of sample books, couture photographs and textiles, are housed at the Swiss National Museum in Zurich. Silks & Prints from the Abraham Archive. COUTURE IN COLOUR tells both the story of the Abraham company and that of European couture, art and luxury throughout the 20th century. Runs until August 11, 2013, at MoMu in Antwerp, Belgium. The Charleston Museum presents Indigo: Natural Blue Dye in the Lowcountry, a small, focused exhibit that explores a brief history of the cultivation and production of indigo, Eliza Lucas Pinckney’s important role and its curious dyeing procedure, along with examples of indigo-dyed textiles. Ranging from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries, these include clothing and household goods which are examples of vatted indigo dyeing, “china blue” printing and blue “penciling,” revealing indigo’s vast complexities and allure. Open through September 2, 2013. The Color Revolution: Fashion and Fabrics, 1960-1975 explores the new dyes, fibers, and designs of the fertile post-World War II period and helps visitors understand how technology and design support each other. On view September 14, 2013 until January 26, 2014 at the American Textile History Museum in Lowell, MA. |
|
Elsewhere around the globe:
 The Art of Travel 1951 Corbis/© Norman Parkinson Ltd courtesy of the Norman Parkinson Archive. |
Regarded as the father of modern fashion photography, 2013 marks the centenary of Norman Parkinson’s birth. Many of the tropes that are now commonplace in print and online images – exotic locations, unexpected props and weird juxtapositions – were introduced in the extraordinary photographs he took before and after the Second World War. Lifework: Norman Parkinson's Century of Style, a National Theatre (London) exhibition covers all aspects of his long career until his death in 1990. Up until May 27, 2013. |
|
Few artists or authors are better known than Theodor Seuss Geisel, a.k.a. Dr. Seuss. Yet to this day, very few people know about his hidden hat collection. A special exhibition, Hats Off to Dr. Seuss!, celebrates the 75th anniversary of Dr. Seuss's 1938 book The 500 Hats of Bartholomew Cubbins. For the first time, Audrey Geisel (Dr. Seuss's widow) has generously allowed an eye-popping selection of Dr. Seuss's hats to leave the legendary hat closet at Seuss House. These hats will travel the country and visit select venues throughout 2013. They are on view at Fingerhut Art Gallery Laguna in Orange County, CA May 17 - June 2, 2013. DOLLS by Viktor&Rolf is an exhibition presented at the Luminato festival in Toronto, Canada from June 8-23, 2013. Viktor&Rolf have proposed a unique catwalk platform, specially crafted for the Royal Ontario Museum's Spirit House space, to feature miniature mannequins dressed in handcrafted, precisely scaled-down garments. Presented by the Australian Racing Museum, Racing Style: 50 Years of Fashions on the Field is an exhibition celebrating Australian racing fashion. At the National Sports Museum in Melbourne until June 30, 2013. |
|
| Glanz und Grauen - Mode im Dritten Reich
(Glamour and Horror - Fashion During the Third Reich) is an exhibition on women's fashion from the time before, during, and after the Nazi era. On display at
the Museum of Industry in Ratingen, Germany, until July 14, 2013. With Treasures of the Royal Courts: Tudors, Stuarts and the Russian Tsars, the V&A reveals the majesty of the courts of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I to Ivan the Terrible and the early Romanovs in a major exhibition celebrating 500 years of exchange between Britain and Russia. Comprising more than 150 objects, from royal portraits, jewellery and luxury goods to processional armour and heraldry, Treasures of the Royal Courts chronicles the close relationship between the English monarchy and the Russian Tsars. Open through July 14, 2013. |
 Elegant evening gown of gold lamé, early 1930s. |
| The tremendous innovation of Japanese fashion designers who have revolutionized the way we think of fashion today will be shown for the first time in Seattle at SAM. The leading Japanese designers who initially gained recognition in the West were Kenzo Takada and Issey Miyake in the 1970s, but it is in the 1980s that Japanese designers emerged with an entirely new aesthetic. Curated by Akiko Fukai, director of the Kyoto Costume Institute, Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion showcases the early emphasis on light and shadow, and the increasingly diverse ultramodern designs that range from the deconstruction and reinvention of Western couture models to wildly revolutionary designs that draw from contemporary street fashion. On view from June 27 to September 8, 2013. The defining characteristic of any fashion period is the shape of the silhouette. Why silhouettes have often had so little to do with the shape of the human body is one of the mysteries of fashion. It is influenced by economic, political and social circumstances as well as attitudes toward sexuality and the ever-present desire for novelty. Undress: Shaping Fashion and Private Life includes not only the garments that give the body structure and shape, but also garments worn at night, at home and in informal situations. At Kent State University Museum until October 20, 2013. Fans are among the earliest accessories because they perform a critical function. But far from purely functional, fans became highly ornamented and beautiful and over the centuries and across continents, a number of different basic forms of fans developed. Fandemonium, at the Kent State University Museum until November 17, 2013, explores different shapes and styles, from hand-painted rococo designs of the eighteenth century to celluloid, art deco pieces from the twentieth century. The Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, Canada goes BIG with an exhibition that showcases textiles and costume that are each in their own remarkable ways BIG… BIG in size, BIG in historical importance, BIG in the news, perhaps created by a BIG name, and often carrying a BIG price tag. 40 objects–both historical and contemporary–showcase BIG from around the world. They range from Egyptian clothing to 18th- and 19th-century Western costumes to 20th-century Haute Couture. Some have never before been on display. Through Fall 2013 Fifty Fabulous Frocks, at the Fashion Museum in Bath, U.K., includes a gorgeous gold embroidered Georgian court dress and a delicate 1870s gauze bustle day dress edged with purple fringing and redolent of the paintings of Tissot alongside a slinky jersey evening dress by Ossie Clark and a classic chic Chanel suit. Also featured are many of the iconic and influential names of 20th century couture - Schiaparelli, Poiret, Vionnet, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent – as well as today’s most desired fashion designers and brands - Erdem, Burberry, John Rocha. This display shows both the richness of the museum collection as well as key moments in fashion history that continue to provide inspiration for modern day designers along with TV and film makers - think Downton Abbey, The Great Gatsby and Anna Karenina. On through the end of 2013. The Museum Joanneum in Graz, Austria invites you to Step up, please! Shoes with stories to tell. On view through January 12, 2014. |
|
 Dolley Madison's embroidered silksatin open robe with hand-embroidery, late 1810s. |
Fashion Timeline
showcases the Kent State University Museum’s world-class collection of
historic fashions. Encompassing two centuries of fashion history, this
exhibition is designed to show the evolution of styles and silhouettes
while contextualizing the pieces with relevant political, technological
and cultural developments. A virtual timeline accompanies the
exhibition. On view until June 28, 2015. The First Ladies at the National Museum of American History explores the unofficial but important position of first lady and the ways that different women have shaped the role to make their own contributions to the presidential administrations and the nation. The exhibition features more than two dozen gowns from the Smithsonian’s almost 100-year old First Ladies Collection, including those worn by Frances Cleveland, Lou Hoover, Jacqueline Kennedy, Laura Bush, and Michelle Obama. The First Ladies encourages visitors to consider the changing role played by the first lady and American women over the past 200 years. |
